Apparently, this part of North Carolina is known as the “Inner Banks” (who knew?) As opposed the “Outer Banks”, which includes Cape Hatteras, often referred to as “The Graveyard of the Atlantic”. Looking at the chart and talking to the locals, we’re glad to be on the inside.
Leaving Alligator River Marina, we headed for Belhaven, NC, in company with our new friends, Bill & Barbara. We twisted through the Alligator River (named for its shape, although alligators have been sighted) and entered the Alligator River-Pungo River canal. Kathy drove most of the way through the canal, doing slow passes when necessary and glaring at fast passers when appropriate.
Arriving at Dowry Creek we were greeted by family members of the owners, who helped us tie up and generously offered to loan us a car to get to Belhaven, about 8 miles away. Kathy used the marina Ford for grocery shopping, but when we came back later, for a car to meet our friends for dinner, we were given the keys to a Mercedes. We were excited to be stylin until we noticed the duct taped door handle, dented fenders and the array of dashboard warning lights. Turning the key, the car rumbled to life (or at least life support) as the headlights flickered in time with the engine’s hesitancy. No matter we weren’t going far.
We went to the Spoon River restaurant in Belhaven, and met our friends, who had arrived in a golf cart, borrowed from another marina. This is a wonderful restaurant with an eclectic menu and a heavy handed bartender. Our kind of place, good food and good company! Midway through the meal a lady named Diana came over to our table and welcomed us to Belhaven on behalf of the Belhaven Chamber of Commerce. We chatted for a while, she wished us well and said she hoped to see us again. There really is such a thing as Southern Hospitality, this almost never happens in Rhode Island.
Leaving Dowry Creek, we were headed to Beaufort (Bofort) NC. This was going to be a 70 mile day so we left as the sun was coming up over the Pungo River. After crossing the Pamlico River we went inland a bit before entering the “Nasty Neuse” River. With 20 knot winds and 6 foot waves pushing us along. I realized how comfortable we’ve become surfing down rollers, and wished that we had mastered this weeks ago when we entered Port Jefferson, back in New York.
Between the waves and a very favorable tide in Adams Creek, we arrived in Beaufort an hour early.
We had made calls to few marinas inquiring about slips but had given a credit card number to Beaufort Yacht Basin, to make sure we had a spot. More bad weather was predicted and we were planning to spend at least two nights. The other marinas were possibly/maybe/we’ll call you back.
Entering the harbor, we radioed in and one of the other marinas started directing us towards them. Amidst the confusion of conflicting directions, we ran aground. Not a big deal, just a gentle nudge and slow stop in the mud. A little reverse, a little bow thruster and we were on our way. Docking with assistance in a 20 knot crosswind. Glad to be secured.
A stalled low pressure system offshore will keep us pinned here for a few days and we are happy about that. Beaufort is a great little town, more about that later…
