On Thursday morning the technician showed up, recharged the fridge and by 9:45 we got a late start…headed for Beaufort SC. This is slow 72 mile trek through the twists and turns of Carolina Low Country (referred to as “slow country” by the locals). The day was a sunny 72 and the travel required close attention to the instruments.
We kept the engine turning at 1900 rpms and our speed varied from 6 to 13 knots as we entered, exited and crossed rivers with strong currents helping, hurting and sometimes confusing us. Great fun driving!
On two occasions, Navionics directed us one way and Bob 423 directed us another. After making two U turns we concluded… when in doubt…in Bob We Trust.
Our primary destination was Ladies Island Marina (Beaufort, SC), recommended by the locals and well reviewed in the guidebooks. Unfortunately, they were using the low season for reconstructing their docks so…no room for us. We altered our plan and completed 72 miles before snagging a mooring at Safe Harbor Beaufort, arriving in time in mix a cocktail and watch the sunset.
This is a spot to remember because it is really easy to get in and out of. In fact the mooring field is so close to the intracoastal that we kept the anchor light on in case someone was making a night transit. After dinner aboard, we prepped for an early departure and slept for the first time without a heater running.
Leaving Beaufort at 7:30 we headed to Savannah, sticking to our plan of getting south in a hurry (trying to get warm and make up for lost time). The temps in the 50s away from the coast and low enough to create dense fog when the ICW meandered nearer the ocean.
As we entered Georgia, we noticed a cultural shift amongst the owners of waterfront property. In Virginia and North Carolina, the locals attached large signs the their docks saying, ”Slow Down” or “No Wake” in an effort to limit the speed of passing boats. These signs do not indicate an official low speed or no wake zone, which are marked at the beginning an end by distinctive Coast Guard buoys. In South Carolina, the wording changed to the more ominous ”Slow Down You are Responsible for Damage Caused by Your Wake”
In Georgia, the signs simply said ”No Wake – Idle Speed Only” and then posted a “Thank You” when you exited the zone. Much more civilized.
We reached Savannah Bend Marina around 4 pm and tied up to the gas dock. This may not sound very appealing, but it is actually very convenient, being situated for easy access. (no complex docking maneuvers required). We ubered to dinner and settled in for the night…until a tug pushing a dredging barge (with very high gear) passed by us at low tide and loudly maneuvered to transit under the exact center of the bridge in order to avoid a collision. We, in fact, heard scraping noises as they passed (mostly) underneath the bridge deck.
OK…its been a few slow days on the ICW. However, We have passed some beautiful homes…
A few interesting birds…
Took turns driving…
As we neared our destination, Saint Simons Island in Georgia, we saw an elegant tall ship in the distance, flying several sails (including a square rigged topsail). Unfortunately it was too far away for a good photo so went back to trying not to run into bridges or sand bars. After tying up to the dock, we were surprised by the close arrival of the privateer Lynx from Nantucket. As she slipped by under power, one crew member shouted over, ”We like your boat”. We humbly replied, ”we like yours too”.
The rivers, riverlets (Kathy’s word…not sure if its real) and marsh we meandered through today were spectacular. It felt like we were in the middle of an oil painting of marsh. When I (Kathy) was driving, or maybe I should say gliding, through this very low country it reminded me of a beautiful painting of marshland that my friend Kathy has…and we were in the middle of that beautiful scene. (It’s too vast to portray in a photo so I won’t try.) Several times, it seemed that we were surrounded by marsh with no outlet in sight, but then we would glide a bit to the left and before us a narrow river appeared. Very cool.
Next stop Florida…stay tuned!
Thanks for the detailed update, some of which went right over my head!!! It sounds like a very exciting and sometimes daunting adventure! You two are a perfect sailors for the job. Keep having fun exploring the ICW. Stay safe and keep posting all your adventures
Thanks, Carol! You’re right on both accounts…exciting and sometimes daunting. Hope all is well there.