After passing through the fancy (expensive) marinas of Fort Lauderdale & Miami (some only accepting yachts between 90 and 200 feet), others charging $5 a foot and one yacht club requiring a letter of recommendation from our club commodore (which might have rivaled the infamous NTYC Ernie Hogan letter, had we time to wait out the application process), we landed at Matheson Hammock State Park and Marina, located on Biscayne Bay, a little south of Coconut Grove. Steps away from the marina, an atoll pool (a ring shaped island or lagoon with a coral rim that encircles it), palm trees, sand and a high end restaurant complete the lovely setting overlooking Biscayne Bay. I skipped a swim after noticing particles floating in the pool…holding out for the bay.
This state park features a restaurant, an atoll pool, walking trails and the Fairchild Botanical Gardens. We walked to the gardens and were awed by its beauty, along with the rain forest and butterfly house, full of plants, flowers, vegetation and trees from around the world; very few indigenous to South Florida. This is privately owned, scientific and educationally oriented facility. A very cool place that we recommend if you’re in the area. Start with a 45 minute tour & tram ride and then decide where you’d like to go. Definitely stop at the cafe for delicious sandwiches.
We only planned to spend 2 nights but a new problem with our refrigerator extended this to 4 nights. We looked into getting a new one and the best we could do was a delivery in early June. However, we lucked into a tech who identified the problem and ordered a part that would be here in a week. After an Uber to Target and a new 50 quart cooler, we were ready to resume and return for the repair next week.
The delay gave us a chance to explore Coconut Grove, a funky bayside community with shops, restaurants, parks and a rich maritime history. After having lunch at one of the many sidewalk cafes, we wandered across the street, to a green space identified as “The Barnacle” which started with a walking trail to bay, and ended at the boathouse and original residence of Commodore Ralph Monroe (1851-1933). The Commodore was an inventor, entrepreneur and yacht designer, specializing in shoal draft sailboats. He was a contemporary and close friend of Captain Nathaniel Herreshoff, who visited him here on several occasions. The Commodore left his mark on yacht design and I have been familiar with his work for many years but didn’t know much about him. I was thrilled to see where he lived and worked. Kathy was tolerably amused.
The Barnacle refers to his residence, a truly ingenious building (circa 1891) with hollow air-duct walls, roof hatches and windows positioned for ventilation by the Biscayne Bay breeze and natural light throughout the house. A truly ”green” structure and comfortably cool on an 80 degree day.
The Commodore started developing the property with a boat house/ workshop/residence. This building has guy wires securing the second floor and breakaway walls on the first floor. 100 years after it was built, it took a direct hit from hurricane Andrew and the structure worked exactly as designed; the end walls were carried away by the storm but the rest of the building remained intact. Those who live on the water will recognize the methodology of breakaway walls as being part of many recent zoning requirements…The Commodore was well ahead of his time!
And now its time to head down Biscayne Bay and explore the upper Keys!